The other day at my favorite local butcher, Bleecker & Greer in Rockport, Maine https://www.mainemeat.com, I spotted a freezer tray full of chunks of oxtail and immediately grabbed it to add…
Italian life
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It was a pleasure to see Julia Moskin delve deeply into olive oil in a recent New York Times article (https://tinyurl.com/y4bgq2ph) Extra-virgin olive oil is such a unique ingredient, so important…
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L’orto del professore, the professor’s garden, is riotous, an unruly tumult of beans and squashes, tomatoes and peppers, cabbages, kale, lettuce, cucumbers, and wild things too. When I visited il professore a…
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This recipe, from my book Flavors of Tuscany (1998), comes from Dario Cecchini, the internationally famous butcher of Panzano, a village just off the highway through the heart of the Chianti country between…
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All by myself for a week in the Tuscan farmhouse kitchen, I decided to make a nice mess of peas Roman style, which you do by gently stewing some chopped onion and…
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I lived in Cyprus off and on in the early ‘70s before the Turkish invasion that split the island into two irreconcilable political entities, one Turkish, one Greek. Our village, on the…
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One telling way to get inside another food culture is quite literally to get inside a person—a chef, a cook, a food producer, even a knowledgeable diner or consumer—who is inside that…