It strikes me that Americans, though we profess an ideal of simplicity, are seldom content with the actual concept—especially at the table where we talk about how…
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Restaurants
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To continue my saga of cooking fish, how easy it is to produce, and how good it is to have on our tables, I offer an exceptionally simple oven-roasted salmon fillet, quick…
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My friend Roger asked me to write about this phenomenon, the bistecca chianina, which is much written about, much misunderstood, and much misrepresented. We had dinner, Roger, his wife, a coupla friends,…
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Just heard the news about Union Square Café and I’m shocked. Though I haven’t dined there much of late, it’s always been one of my favorite New York restaurants, as it has…
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I’m on my way back back to frigid Maine after ten days in Puglia, the region at the tip of the Italian boot where massive ancient olive trees are kings of the…
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I’m a hopelessly old-fashioned romantic when it comes to restaurants. You can have your Bulli, your Noma, your Per Se. When it comes to good food in a warm and welcoming atmosphere…
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I just came across this photograph I took of the kitchen at El Bulli right before service when I had the privilege of visiting the restaurant in. . . 2007, perhaps? We…
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Saying goodbye to Sevilla last Friday evening was difficult—it’s such a beautiful old town, so full of vibrant street life, so teeming with history, that I think I’d like to stay forever,…
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Heading Down East, that is, beyond the Penobscot River, on a sunny summer day when skies are blue and a briny onshore breeze is stirring the tops of the pointed firs, make a…
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Now that summer and summer visitors have arrived on the coast of Maine, lots of people are asking me how to find this Belfast, Maine “mystery restaurant” which I wrote about back…
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Nice write-up in today’s (2/16) New York Times for Porsena. Thank you, Julia Moskin! ……
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I had an extraordinary meal a few nights ago at a secret restaurant called appropriately enough The Lost Kitchen, hidden away on a side street in Belfast, Maine. There’s no sign outside…
