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Restaurants

  • It’s All About the Excess

    It strikes me that Americans, though we profess an ideal of simplicity, are seldom content with the actual concept—especially at the table where we talk about how…

  • Eat More Fish!

    To continue my saga of cooking fish, how easy it is to produce, and how good it is to have on our tables, I offer an exceptionally simple oven-roasted salmon fillet, quick…

  • Bistecca Chianina

    My friend Roger asked me to write about this phenomenon, the bistecca chianina, which is much written about, much misunderstood, and much misrepresented. We had dinner, Roger, his wife, a coupla friends,…

  • ulivo secolare, Puglia

    Return to Puglia

    I’m on my way back back to frigid Maine after ten days in Puglia, the region at the tip of the Italian boot where massive ancient olive trees are kings of the…

  • pranzo da Tacconi

    Buon appetito!

    I’m a hopelessly old-fashioned romantic when it comes to restaurants. You can have your Bulli, your Noma, your Per Se. When it comes to good food in a warm and welcoming atmosphere…

  • El Bulli kitchen

    Memories of El Bulli

    I just came across this photograph I took of the kitchen at El Bulli right before service when I had the privilege of visiting the restaurant in. . . 2007, perhaps? We…

  • Adios, Sevilla

    Saying goodbye to Sevilla last Friday evening was difficult—it’s such a beautiful old town, so full of vibrant street life, so teeming with history, that I think I’d like to stay forever,…

  • The Lost Kitchen

    I had an extraordinary meal a few nights ago at a secret restaurant called appropriately enough The Lost Kitchen, hidden away on a side street in Belfast, Maine. There’s no sign outside…