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  • Pear Tarte Tatin

    You could order a special tarte tatin pan for this splendid tart, but I use, as I have for years, a 10-inch black iron skillet that’s about 2 inches deep. A similarly…

    November 17, 2021 by

  • Time for dead man’s bones

    Some people claim Halloween is their favorite holiday. Not me! I respect its origins in Samhain, the Celtic celebration of harvest’s end and remembering those who died in the previous…

    October 28, 2021 by

  • Tuscan Harvest

    During the golden days of autumn, when the vendemmia, the grape harvest, is in full swing, Tuscan country bakers take advantage of the abundance of wine grapes to make schiacciata coll’uva, an…

    October 2, 2021 by

  • Extra-Virgins: Tasting the Best

    Rolando Beramendi of Manicaretti imports visited us in Maine recently and brought with him five Italian extra-virgins–one Tuscan and four southern ones. These were intended as candidates for a structured…

    August 30, 2021 by

  • Apple Time

    Farmer Victoria’s surprise gift this week of a dozen small green early apples, of unknown variety but rigorously organic and unsprayed, led me to the first apple crisp of the…

    August 29, 2021 by

  • A Very Young Traveler

    By the time I was four years old, I was allowed to cross the street, our street, by myself. My mother taught me to stand at the edge, where the sidewalk, such…

    August 16, 2021 by

  • Fond farewell to asparagus

    Asparagus Risotto Because the asparagus season is past but the flavors linger on, I wrote this paean to one of my favorite vegetables and one of my favorite ways of cooking: Risotto. With a…

    June 25, 2021 by

  • Asparagus Season

    My father, may he rest in peace, was a champion Yankee gardener, as proud of his vegetable garden as he was of the flowerbeds that surrounded his bayside home. He did almost…

    May 24, 2021 by

  • Maine Lobster Stew

    Lobster stew, in all its simplicity, is a total celebration, a glamor dish reserved for Christmas Eve or for special guests arriving from away who want their first taste of…

    December 26, 2020 by