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Sauces and condiments

  • nancy-harmon-jenkins-aioli

    Extra-virgin in the Kitchen

    Cooking with extra-virgin: It’s not always at the stove. In this farmhouse kitchen in deepest Provence, it’s an aioli, garlic mayonnaise, served with poached salt cod and vegetables but equally delicious with simple…

  • Stromboli from the ferry

    A Mediterranean Caper

    I spent the best part of last week on the island of Stromboli—I’m leaving tonight on the overnight ferry to Naples—visiting my friend Beatrice Ughi, the director-in-chief of that wonderful website

  • pickled peppers in oil

    Olive Oil Pickled Peppers

    I’ve been experimenting with pickles, using olive oil to give finish and smoothness to what are often sharp, acerbic flavors. My grandmother Harmon’s sour cucumber pickle recipe calls for cider vinegar cut…

  • chianina.Dardano.3.11

    Take That, You Locavores!

    That was the sign in my local butcher shop in Cortona when I passed by a couple of days ago. The hand lettering advertises “Vitella Chianina”—vitella being something like what we would…

  • The Longest Winter

    I woke this morning to yet another snowfall, this one downy soft, yielding only about four inches by the time it had stopped. Truly, this seems like the winter with no end.…

  • North African red pepper sauce

    Red Hot and Fishy

    I admit I wasn’t hugely impressed with a lot of the food I had in Israel last October. So much of it seemed derivative from, and nowhere near as good as, food…