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  • A Southern Dilemma

    I’m having a hard time putting together two versions of the same reality. In recent weeks I’ve been reading with great interest Isabel Wilkerson’s fine book, The Warmth…

  • nancy-harmon-jenkins-aioli

    Extra-virgin in the Kitchen

    Cooking with extra-virgin: It’s not always at the stove. In this farmhouse kitchen in deepest Provence, it’s an aioli, garlic mayonnaise, served with poached salt cod and vegetables but equally delicious with simple…

  • Snow Days

    Lear: Blow, winds, and crack your cheeks! rage! blow! You cataracts and hurricanoes, spout Till you have drench’d our steeples, drown’d the cocks! Kent: Alas, sir, are you here? things that love night Love not such nights as…

  • Peaches

    Cortona:–The new season Valdichiana peaches, just  starting to come in, are full of the most incomparable flavor. How to describe it? Words fail. I could say wine, I could say honey, I…

  • Bistecca Chianina

    My friend Roger asked me to write about this phenomenon, the bistecca chianina, which is much written about, much misunderstood, and much misrepresented. We had dinner, Roger, his wife, a coupla friends,…

  • one perfect artichoke

    Eat Your Veg. Please.

    I just spoke on the phone for 22 minutes, in my gravelly early-morning voice (with a cold coming on yet), with an Italian radio interviewer about Italian/Mediterranean food and its influence on…

  • On to Another Book–

    My new book got off to a roaring good start this weekend when I made an outstanding duck ragu to go with pappardelle in a hearty, old-fashioned dish from Arezzo, our neighboring…