A great talk by the wonderfully engaging and knowledgeable David Travis at New York University’s Villa La Pietra in Florence yesterday afternoon—introducing a group of culinary studies grad students to Italy today,…
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Nancy Harmon Jenkins
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The artichoke season is drawing to a close. Time to pickle up a few so we’ll have something to think about in the summer days ahead. Carciofi sott’olio are great on an…
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One of the great pleasures of being on my own, which I have been for the last ten days or so, is that I can eat whatever I want whenever I want…
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Fave, aka fava beans, aka broad beans, are what’s most prominent on Tuscan tables at the moment, whether eaten raw–piled on a plate, shucked at the moment, and served with soft, young,…
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My mother always said: If you can find a patch of blue big enough to mend a hole in a Dutchman’s britches, it’s going to clear. I keep finding patches, like this…
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These are the bulbs of wild hyacinths, tassel or grape hyacinths to be precise, Muscari racemosum. They are treasured in Puglia where they’re harvested in the wild in late winter and early…
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Drop me into any town in Italy and if there’s a market to be found, my instincts draw me to it. One clue I look for: little old ladies overburdened with plastic…
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Lacinato or Tuscan kale is what we call it in the U.S. where it’s relatively new for cooks and gardeners alike. But in Tuscany cavolo nero has long been a staple of…
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And the winner is: Joe Queenan of the Wall Street Journal with his Saturday plaint about the Mediterranean diet. And before I go any further, I’m also promoting his stupidity on the…
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Poaching fish in olive oil was astonishing to me when I first encountered it back in the 1990s. A wonderful chef named Tom Gutow had a restaurant in Castine, Maine on Penobscot…
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All my research into a true tarte tatin kept coming up against the French insistence that ONLY an apple called Reine des Reinettes would do for this classic French caramelized apple upside-down…
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Fish Chowder for Supper The vegetarian part of the family was coming home from three weeks in India—arriving late at night after a flight from Delhi to London to Boston, then the bus…