bacelli

Springing for Fave

When people ask what’s the best time to come to Tuscany, I usually answer: In the fall. That’s when the weather is glorious, warm days, cool nights, lots of golden sunshine, markets filled with autumn produce, new wine bubbling in its casks, woods filled with wild mushroom foragers and truffle hunters, and olive farmers spreading orange nets under trees, getting ready for the upcoming harvest.

But I’m beginning to change my advice. Spring in Tuscany this year has been fully as wonderful as any autumn I can remember. Watching the hillsides slowly green up as the trees–beech, chestnuts, oaks, poplars–come into leaf, one after the other, and join the evergreen cypresses and olives—is just as dramatic in its way and a whole lot more satisfying than witnessing autumn leaf-fall knowing that the onset of cold weather is around the corner. This year we’ve reveled in the sequence of harvests, beginning with late-winter artichokes, unrolling through asparagus, then wild asparagus, fava beans, agretti (aka barba di frate–I will say more about this later on), sweet peas, and now at last strawberries.

Fava beans are far and away my favorite, as they are of most Italians. Raw fave are a Tuscan treasure, consumed with special gusto, the beans in their thick green pods piled in the center of the table, accompanied by pale, creamy wedges of fresh young pecorino cheese and a spritzy, mineraly white wine. They call this cacio e bacelli, which simply means cheese with fave. The salty, slightly sour, milky cheese makes a perfect foil for the earthy flavors of raw green beans. My daughter features the combination in a salad at her restaurant Porsena in New York City, with beans the size of your little fingernail, paired with diced pecorino, the whole dish dressed with her most excellent extra-virgin.

I’ve fought the fava bean battle for years, but I think I’m losing. That battle centers on the insistence of restaurant chefs—as well as food writers who listen to them—that not only must the beans be shucked, they also must be peeled, each individual bean, a laborious process that might be okay in a well-staffed restaurant kitchen, but certainly is unnecessary if the beans are harvested at the right moment, i.e., when they are not much bigger than your thumbnail. I once persuaded the cooks at Chez Panisse to serve the beans with their skins intact—but I’m certain sure they went back to their old French-restaurant ways as soon as my back was turned. Honestly, you shouldn’t have to do that. When they’re young and tender, plump and juicy but not at all tough, fave are at their very finest. All too often, even in good farmers’ markets, the beans available are too fat and old and too tough to do anything with them beyond boiling the bejeesus out of them and then peeling each individual. Or vice-versa.

My rule is:

  • Size between little fingernail and thumbnail, eat raw;
  • Size a little bigger than thumbnail, braise with olive oil, minced onion, and pancetta or guanciale, or make it vegetarian—see recipe below;
  • Size a good bit bigger than thumbnail, leave on the bean stalk to dry for winter storage—dried fave are a cold-weather resource for soups and purees in the most provident kitchens of the Mediterranean.

This recipe comes from the Greek island of Corfu but it’s typical of the way fresh young fave are treated all over the Med. In Lebanon and Palestine, very young beans are often cooked this way right in their pods,  cut like green beans but not shucked. This comes from my Essential Mediterranean (HarperCollins):

For four servings:

  • 2 pounds fresh fava beans in the pod
  • 4 fresh white spring onions, chopped
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fennel leaves (optional)
  • 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • Juice of 1 large lemon

Shuck the beans; or if you wish, shuck half the beans and with the other half, simply top and tail the pods and cut them into 1-inch lengths.

Combine onions and oil in a saucepan and saute very gently over low heat until the onions are tender and melting into the oil. Do not let the onions get brown. Add the beans and continue cooking very gently until the color of the beans changes and becomes more opaque.

Add salt and pepper and stir in the fennel and parsley. Add a small amount of water, just enough to come to the tops of the beans. Bring to a simmer and cook gently 15 minutes or so, uncovered, until nearly all the water has boiled away and there are just a few tablespoons of syrupy liquid left in the bottom of the pan. Stir in the lemon juice, bring to a simmer, remove from the heat, and serve immediately.

Variation: Instead of adding lemon juice, when you remove the beans from the heat, stir in 2 to 3 tablespoons of plain yogurt, preferably made from sheep’s or goat’s milk, if you can find it.


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    7 Comments

  • Nancy Jenkins
    Reply Nancy Jenkins May 20, 2011 at 9:53 am

    Here’s an update on the fava bean story. My spies in New York (they are numerous) tell me that at Eataly, the Tuscan combination of raw fave and pecorino (cacio e bacelli) is also served as a plated salad, BUT behind the counter there is one poor guy tasked with peeling a mountain of fava beans, one by one by one. No wonder it costs so much! Hey there y’all, hey Joe, hey Mario, hey Lidia, that is NOT the way we do it in Tuscany!!!

  • Reply Wait! Stop! Don’t Peel Those Fava Beans! | Nancy Harmon Jenkins July 21, 2011 at 5:47 pm

    […] of garlic, olive oil and fresh lemon juice. For a recipe, see my post on May 17, Springing for Fave: http://nancyharmonjenkins.com/posts/springing-for-fave/ Bookmark on Delicious Digg this post Share on Facebook Share with Stumblers Tweet about it […]

  • Reply Local Motive Farm » Adventures in Preserving July 10, 2012 at 12:04 am

    […] that was quite passionate about NOT peeling the beans. The same writer also offers up a recipe for Braised Fava Beans, which also includes scallions and herbs. Why not use your dill? Oh, by the way, as far as I can […]

  • Reply Claire Niles August 23, 2013 at 12:16 am

    This is a question not a comment. Can Fava Beans be home canned in the shell like snap green beans?

    • nancyharmonjenkins
      Reply nancyharmonjenkins August 23, 2013 at 12:09 pm

      A very interesting question, Claire Niles. I have never heard of canning fava beans in the shell but it could be interesting as an experiment. If you do try, I would suggest keeping them for several months and then test to see if they grow slimy. Canning shelled beans might yield better results, IMO.

  • Reply Cynthia May 2, 2014 at 8:00 am

    Nancy, I’m with you 100% on not double-shelling the fava beans…local cooks here in Puglia don’t so why is everyone in the states convinced that it’s the way it’s done?? I would actually love to see the movement taken one step further and convince more people to eat the pods (as you suggested in your recipe). Here in Puglia a few cooks have begun using the pods as well and they are absolutely lovely. My inspiration for cooking with them came from other Mediterranean countries where they are widely used (Greece, Turkey and Lebanon as you mentioned). For those of us lucky enough to have access to pesticide free fave beans it’s a shame not to eat them!

    • nancyharmonjenkins
      Reply nancyharmonjenkins May 2, 2014 at 9:15 am

      Thanks for this comment, Cynthia. I can see we might have to organize something called The Whole Bean Campaign. I’m also told the leaves, when young and tender, are quite delicious. As soon as I get back to Italy and the lava bean season, I’m going to be onto this!

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